your mp moment of zen...

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grk10vq
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Re: your mp moment of zen...

Postby grk10vq » Tue Mar 22, 2016 3:02 pm

I found this to be THE climb on this side of the slips
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boissal
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Re: your mp moment of zen...

Postby boissal » Wed Mar 30, 2016 2:25 pm

^^^
THE climb uh. The King Line...

How about this FA smack dab in the middle of the Land of the Thousands in Triassic. Oh wait, done in 2002
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barstar
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Re: your mp moment of zen...

Postby barstar » Wed Apr 13, 2016 2:09 pm

"I boisal j squirrel solemnly swear only to climb choss everyday until I die or date a girl whichever comes first"

Wanna climb soon?

Good to hear the ankle is doing well.

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Tenesmus
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Re: your mp moment of zen...

Postby Tenesmus » Sun Apr 24, 2016 12:39 pm

Steiger at his self-depreciating best: "Really just a "direct" finish, but given its own name in pursuit of my unquenchable thirst for glory."

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Re: your mp moment of zen...

Postby boissal » Mon Apr 25, 2016 2:38 pm

He is certainly filling the blanks in BCC with some pretty awesome routes. The glory should be his!
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Re: your mp moment of zen...

Postby boissal » Tue Apr 26, 2016 9:43 am

I keep a gear log to track falls on gear and used an online calculator to calculate the FF
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tanderson
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Re: your mp moment of zen...

Postby tanderson » Fri Apr 29, 2016 4:15 pm

A man sized boy, on a boy sized boulder.


http://www.mountainproject.com/v/111817792#a_111818152

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boissal
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Re: your mp moment of zen...

Postby boissal » Wed Jun 01, 2016 2:31 pm

A small part of me is hoping that this is BSmoot revisiting his routes...

Parley's Canyon, Iron Curtain Wall, Out of Touch wrote:A bolt has been added at the bottom of this route. I guess it could allow for a direct start but the moves would be harder than anything else on the climb. You couldn't easily clip it doing the normal foot traverse to the original first bolt so I did a hand traverse and then mantle to use it. Think there is still decking potential if you blow the clip on the now second bolt.


Parley's Canyon, Iron Curtain Wall, Iron Curtain wrote:A bolt has been added at the bottom of this route. Still gonna deck if you botch the now second bolt. If you want it super safe, bring a stick clip or top rope it like I do.


Parley's Canyon, Iron Curtain Wall, Gotta Be Tall Or Else You'll Fall wrote:A bolt has been added to the bottom of this route, its close enough to the ground that botching the second clip will probably still result in a ground fall. Would have been better to put the effort into replacing the original first bolt which could be easily stick clipped.
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bsmoot
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Re: your mp moment of zen...

Postby bsmoot » Thu Jun 02, 2016 2:11 pm

Jonathan and I have added some SS bolts here. Over the last 25 years, the ground creep and weathering has lowered the base a few feet. This made the first bolt even higher off the ground.

After reading the above posts, you'd think the new bolts don't help much but they do. You just need someone who knows how to belay.

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grk10vq
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Re: your mp moment of zen...

Postby grk10vq » Thu Jun 02, 2016 9:48 pm

and someone who knows how to climb.
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BackClip
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Re: your mp moment of zen...

Postby BackClip » Thu Jun 23, 2016 3:22 pm

"Does your ass get jealous from all the shit that comes out of your mouth?"

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Re: your mp moment of zen...

Postby GregG » Sat Jul 30, 2016 1:32 pm

"When I did the route in June the belayer had to be on the other side of the river. It wasn't until after I finished the route that I realized if I would have fallen the belayer would have gone into the water XD"

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/i-thi ... /105740123

barstar
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Re: your mp moment of zen...

Postby barstar » Wed Aug 10, 2016 4:02 pm


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grk10vq
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Re: your mp moment of zen...

Postby grk10vq » Wed Aug 10, 2016 4:37 pm

good looking out!
that was sweet.
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ddriver
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Re: your mp moment of zen...

Postby ddriver » Thu Aug 25, 2016 9:03 am

Climbed this last week, and I do not understand what the hype is all about. The route was alright, and I am not eager to do it again. Definitely worth doing to test your composure while being exposed. The climb itself is worth doing once, that is all. Two stars.


I'm about 70% sure this is the route I was climbing today, my buddy and I were just messing around in the BCC. Found this route and decided to give it a try, didn't realize it was a multi pitch with no anchors, so I left a red and a purple to bail on. I will be coming back later this week or next to pick them up, please leave them there


Lord please help us.


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