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by db
Mon Aug 06, 2007 9:55 am
Forum: Routes
Topic: E-Perch memories?
Replies: 24
Views: 7343

Did Myopia again. Awesome route. Thanks for the #5 cam tip Nooky. Totally sewed it up.
by db
Wed Aug 01, 2007 9:44 pm
Forum: Routes
Topic: E-Perch memories?
Replies: 24
Views: 7343

Awww shit. Gonna be crowded this weekend....
by db
Fri May 11, 2007 12:01 pm
Forum: Routes
Topic: Old schoolers
Replies: 111
Views: 41897

Interesting web resource: http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/hard.htm

With Pentapitch checking in at pretty hard .11 I think we have a contender.
by db
Fri May 11, 2007 10:15 am
Forum: Routes
Topic: Old schoolers
Replies: 111
Views: 41897

Claims of "America's first 5.11" get muddy fast, but I would say the FFA of Pentapitch in '66 would be in the running...
by db
Wed May 09, 2007 9:57 am
Forum: Routes
Topic: Rebolting and future work in lcc
Replies: 392
Views: 88124

I propose a LittleCC Interactive Bolt Internet Database Online (LIBIDO) to track exact bolt counts with correlating hanger serial numbers. If someone adds another bolt, that sucka will have a bullseye on it so quick...
by db
Tue May 08, 2007 7:23 am
Forum: Routes
Topic: Rebolting and future work in lcc
Replies: 392
Views: 88124

Tink, I don't think etrier is attacking kid personally. Kid's position is that climbing should be a physical exercise without danger. I don't think you can ever totally eliminate danger from climbing. So yeah, there might be better exploits that are safer and still physical.
by db
Mon May 07, 2007 5:37 pm
Forum: Routes
Topic: Rebolting and future work in lcc
Replies: 392
Views: 88124

You reminded me of an important distinction--a route put up in bold, ground-up style (Intensive Care) is in a completely different class when compared to a contrived run-out on a rap bolted route. And yes, all climbers should bolt for the grade, not for their own ability.
by db
Mon May 07, 2007 3:37 pm
Forum: Routes
Topic: Rebolting and future work in lcc
Replies: 392
Views: 88124

I think this is a good dialogue. I've been approached about adding fixed gear to routes I put up. And have considered doing the same myself on routes that see few leads. But I've always held off because I feel that without some "casting of the die" after a first ascent, you remove one of t...
by db
Tue Jan 09, 2007 9:37 pm
Forum: Routes
Topic: Wasatch History
Replies: 273
Views: 160627

Lower pitch. I thought I was home free and was pulling onto what i thought was my first bomber piece where the Serpent meets the traversing crack of the Black Peeler. Then it popped. Five or six yanked or broken pieces later and I was staring horizontally at my belayer, Kurt Fashimpaur, as he stood ...
by db
Mon Jan 08, 2007 2:34 pm
Forum: Routes
Topic: Wasatch History
Replies: 273
Views: 160627

I totally resemble that remark. I would give you the Peeler details, but I can't remember. Something about a 60 footer...
by db
Mon Jan 08, 2007 9:57 am
Forum: Routes
Topic: Wasatch History
Replies: 273
Views: 160627

Now you've done it. The old guys will never shut up.
by db
Thu Dec 07, 2006 10:56 am
Forum: Ice and snow
Topic: Provo Ice?
Replies: 4
Views: 2772

I know Stairway has been climbed to the top of the third pitch.
by db
Thu Nov 30, 2006 11:46 am
Forum: Ice and snow
Topic: Provo Ice?
Replies: 4
Views: 2772

Provo Ice?

Cold as shit. Any reports?
by db
Mon Oct 16, 2006 7:57 am
Forum: Routes
Topic: Meat Puppet
Replies: 37
Views: 10281

Yeah, totally fucked that up. Better stay off.
by db
Mon Sep 25, 2006 2:34 pm
Forum: Routes
Topic: Cynical Indian Creek Bumper Sticker
Replies: 13
Views: 4273

Sorry, can't go for the bumper sticker. The irony would be completely lost on those it was meant to tweak.

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