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Utahclimbers.com - Search

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by Skyman
Fri Feb 23, 2007 9:23 am
Forum: Routes
Topic: Wasatch Ice
Replies: 8
Views: 2960

I also thought the belay below the last pitch was directly in the line of fire. Was it placed so that you could climb the farmed ice on the left? I don't get it. This is the same guy who I recall saying that there are no first ascents left at the City of Rocks. He has climbed everything. Anything th...
by Skyman
Fri Mar 23, 2007 9:57 am
Forum: For Sale/Lost and Found
Topic: New Android Leashes
Replies: 1
Views: 1657

New Android Leashes

I have a pair of brand new Android leashes for sale, still in the bag. Bought them late in the season, never put them on. I think I will go leashless next year with some new tools so I will just keep the old leashes on my Cobras. PM me if anyone is interested. We can talk price then.
by Skyman
Mon Apr 09, 2007 10:33 am
Forum: New Areas
Topic: Devils Playground
Replies: 40
Views: 32211

Devils Playground

I checked out an area over the weekend I have wanted to check out for the past 15 years. Some of the local campers/ATVer's told me this place was called Devils Playground. Very similar to the City of Rocks, maybe a little more rough. Seems to be a ton of potential. I only scoped out a couple of bolt...
by Skyman
Mon Apr 09, 2007 3:37 pm
Forum: New Areas
Topic: Devils Playground
Replies: 40
Views: 32211

That would be the place. I took a few pics. I'll try to get some posted in the next couple of days. Looks to have a lot of very overhanging hueco's. A couple of the routes I checked out looked to be in the 12-13 range, very overhanging with large holds, but short. PM me if you need exact GPS coordin...
by Skyman
Mon Apr 09, 2007 4:05 pm
Forum: New Areas
Topic: Devils Playground
Replies: 40
Views: 32211

Well I've been to Painter Springs. I don't think you can compare the two. Yes, more weathered then the City. I guess it's all how you look at things. Maple canyon used to be considered a choss pile. Maybe not a lot of "traditional" lines, but I think there is much face climbing potential. ...
by Skyman
Mon Apr 09, 2007 7:30 pm
Forum: New Areas
Topic: Devils Playground
Replies: 40
Views: 32211

Let's put it this way. It's not LCC or the City. I did a bunch of routes out there back in the early 90's. I think Chris Begue(sp?) did a lot of FA's there. We did a bunch of his routes. We climbed a bit in LCC in the late 80's. Been to the stuff out by beaver. Very gritty. There is a wall that's li...
by Skyman
Tue Apr 10, 2007 10:42 am
Forum: New Areas
Topic: Devils Playground
Replies: 40
Views: 32211

There is a guide book out for Lamoille Canyon in the Ruby's. Some trad, some sport, and some maple canyon type rock. There is still some so called "secret stuff" up there. I remember an old climbing mag from the late 80's or early 90's that had a big spread on some of these choice lines. T...
by Skyman
Fri May 04, 2007 2:07 pm
Forum: Routes
Topic: Hounds tooth
Replies: 6
Views: 1917

Bring a helmet. We did the 5.8 (I think) route years ago. Pretty straight forward if I recall. Very loose, lots of falling rock. The approach was not fun with a full pack of gear. I wish I could remember what pro we used to save you some weight. Didn't seem as classic as it looked. Start hiking earl...
by Skyman
Fri May 11, 2007 9:25 am
Forum: Routes
Topic: Rebolting and future work in lcc
Replies: 392
Views: 100618

Interesting you said that JP. I have seen that route spit more people off than any other 5.8 in the canyon. I climbed it the first time in 84. I bet I have climbed that route 20 times or more, never fell. Well about four years ago, I was up with my wife and her sister to do an "easy" 5.8. ...
by Skyman
Fri May 11, 2007 11:23 am
Forum: Routes
Topic: Rebolting and future work in lcc
Replies: 392
Views: 100618

I am glad the AF, ARI and AAC have come up with some guidelines. But who appointed you as the one to make the critical decisions? If the first ascent party wants the bolt removed, let THEM go remove it. We don't need some self appointed ethics police making decisions based on what the AF, ARI or the...
by Skyman
Fri May 11, 2007 12:47 pm
Forum: Routes
Topic: Rebolting and future work in lcc
Replies: 392
Views: 100618

"Look who's opinion got implemented" Huh? No one placed that bolt because of my opinion. "The anchor in question has not been there for over 25 years" Huh? Sorry, I climbed it 24 years ago. Bolt was there. "It appears you are continuing to get your way, Mr. Skyman, despite m...
by Skyman
Tue May 15, 2007 12:49 pm
Forum: Routes
Topic: Rebolting and future work in lcc
Replies: 392
Views: 100618

I spoke with Tony last night. He said he has no intentions of removing the bolt on CP. He said he was just looking for some opinions on the subject. No intentions of removal. I'd never met Tony, or spoke with him before. Seems like a nice enough guy.

Kyle
by Skyman
Tue May 15, 2007 3:01 pm
Forum: Routes
Topic: Rebolting and future work in lcc
Replies: 392
Views: 100618

So, Gorilla, was that sign directed at me?

Skyman
by Skyman
Mon May 21, 2007 2:34 pm
Forum: New Areas
Topic: Devils Playground
Replies: 40
Views: 32211

MB, Just like going to the city. On highway 30, after you get off of I-84, stay left (south) on highway 30. This would be where you would normally turn towards Strevell. You will see signs that say Emmigrant Pass. Take that dirt road. (on right) As you continue, you will see some large rock outcropp...
by Skyman
Mon May 21, 2007 4:04 pm
Forum: New Areas
Topic: Devils Playground
Replies: 40
Views: 32211


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