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Utahclimbers.com - Search

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by Ben Folsom
Mon Oct 17, 2005 10:19 pm
Forum: Routes
Topic: Frozen Stool 5.12a ** question?
Replies: 9
Views: 2448

Hornet

Yeah, I did the first ascent of that short thin crack to the right of Frozen Stool. Probably in the early 90's. Called it Hornet because I got stung by some bee type thing while climbing it.
by Ben Folsom
Mon Oct 17, 2005 10:46 pm
Forum: New Areas
Topic: LCC
Replies: 113
Views: 66034

New free route on Black Peeler face.

I just did the first ascent of a route on the righthand prow of the Black Peeler face to the right of Peeler Direct. Golden Eye 5.12+ FA Ben Folsom Oct. 15 2005 Climb most of Orangutan Afternoon, stem right past a chimney and traverse right to a belay ledge with bolts. From there, Golden Eye climbs ...
by Ben Folsom
Tue Oct 18, 2005 6:46 pm
Forum: Routes
Topic: Frozen Stool 5.12a ** question?
Replies: 9
Views: 2448

Hornet

Yeah, I remember the bashies. I only left one or two fixed, if any. I was walking up there a few months ago, and there were a bunch of fixed heads, so I guess it's had some ascents. I remember the scariest part was after all those heads, there was a small flake that I hooked on. I'd be suprised if t...
by Ben Folsom
Tue Oct 18, 2005 7:00 pm
Forum: Routes
Topic: Kane Creek
Replies: 6
Views: 2356

Homer and Marge Area

One winter I was living in moab and the weather was really shitty so I ended up aid soloing a bunch and did all those towers, and first ascents of quite a few more. Yeah, some of those cam burns routes don't have the best bolts on them. His routes don't make much sense to me. Anyway, if the bolts ar...
by Ben Folsom
Thu Oct 20, 2005 6:11 pm
Forum: New Areas
Topic: san rafael swell
Replies: 32
Views: 28168

New routes in the Swell

For the past 10-12 years or so I've been putting up new routes all around the Swell, including nine new routes on the Eastern reef. There are people who like that type of climbing, and people who don't. I think it's great, but I like every type of climbing. I have info on all my routes in the Swell ...
by Ben Folsom
Sat Oct 29, 2005 7:56 am
Forum: Announcements/Events/Other/Statewide
Topic: Just this side of Price
Replies: 11
Views: 3424

Castle Gate

The route in the crack/corner facing the road is very loose, not recommended. Conrad and I started putting a route up on the NE? face (downcanyon side). Maybe we put in 10 bolts on lead and went searching for better rock elsewhere. On that pitch, which is proabably 5.11? every hand hold is loose, bu...
by Ben Folsom
Sat Oct 29, 2005 8:14 am
Forum: Routes
Topic: NOTCH PEAK
Replies: 17
Views: 5752

Book of Saturdays

by Ben Folsom
Fri Nov 04, 2005 5:51 pm
Forum: Routes
Topic: NOTCH PEAK
Replies: 17
Views: 5752

The Road

The Road is high clearance 4wd, but seems reasonable in my truck. It gets steep and exposed near the top in places. The road takes you to within about a 45 minute walk to the summit. It's a great walk, right along the rim of the walls. I think the best way to do it though is from below. The walk up ...
by Ben Folsom
Tue Jan 03, 2006 11:24 pm
Forum: Routes
Topic: 70 and Sunny
Replies: 7
Views: 2243

Another editing note... Rosco is without an E like Grayhghost has. Not Roscoe as in Roscoe P. Coltrane. His full name is Rosco Holcomb Wholesome Folsom. I don't remember reeking of cheap whiskey that morning... morning??? :?
by Ben Folsom
Tue Aug 15, 2006 4:48 pm
Forum: New Areas
Topic: Notch Peak
Replies: 4
Views: 9502

I agree with Etrier. Notch Peak has some great routes up it. The rock is of various qualities from excellent to pretty loose. There's nothing wrong with climbing a little choss now and again. It's really all about adventure and being up on an amazing wall, overlooking an amazing place.
by Ben Folsom
Fri May 18, 2007 11:12 pm
Forum: New Areas
Topic: san rafael swell
Replies: 32
Views: 28168

Bolted routes on the reef

Sorry Etrier and Crackroach, I have to disagree with you!!! I won't say anything about the sport routes in the buckhorn wash, I've never climbed on those, but the routes on the eastern reef are fantastic. I have put up almost 20 4-7 pitch routes there in the last few years. Ranging from 5.4- 5.12. T...
by Ben Folsom
Sun May 20, 2007 9:19 am
Forum: New Areas
Topic: san rafael swell
Replies: 32
Views: 28168

Thats alright Etrier... I just wanted to clarify that those routes are really good. I wouldn't spend all the money and time on them if I thought that the holds were going to be gone any time in the near future. All the beta and good photo/topos are on Mountain Project in the Eastern Reef Slabs secti...
by Ben Folsom
Tue Jun 12, 2007 7:56 pm
Forum: Bouldering
Topic: Bouldering pics to keep you psyched...
Replies: 2852
Views: 592664

Yeah, sharing a small house with 11 other people sounds real great... :?
by Ben Folsom
Thu Aug 02, 2007 5:48 pm
Forum: New Areas
Topic: san rafael swell
Replies: 32
Views: 28168

The routes Lance and I have been putting up in the Reef usually have more than one bolt per pitch, unless it is 5.7 or 5.8 or something. Looking at our pitch lengths and bolt counts, it seems like on average we are placing bolts 15-25 feet apart. Some closer and some more widely spaced, depending on...

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