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Utahclimbers.com - Search

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by Dave Budge
Sun Sep 18, 2005 2:44 pm
Forum: Routes
Topic: Slabs? dislike or like?
Replies: 41
Views: 9200

Full circle

Who would've thought climbers in 2005 would be talking about Flashdance or Pebbles and Bambam? Ten years ago I couldn't find anyone who had heard of P & B after I did it, and it wasn't easy to find partners for Flashdance. Not as glamorous as sending Burning or Hell I guess. Pulled from relative...
by Dave Budge
Sun Sep 18, 2005 2:47 pm
Forum: Routes
Topic: Kenny...
Replies: 6
Views: 1783

N-word

It's nice to see racism and ignorance are alive and well.
by Dave Budge
Sun Sep 18, 2005 3:06 pm
Forum: Routes
Topic: Stem the Tide
Replies: 4
Views: 1810

Stem the Tide

An unfortunate climber trashed his ankle on STT years ago, but TR rehearse the route like it's a gritstone headpoint and all should go well. The closer one's feet are to the corner the harder it is, so to risk sounding stupidly obvious, work out the stems really well. The approach dihedral is probab...
by Dave Budge
Mon Sep 19, 2005 2:46 pm
Forum: Routes
Topic: Slabs? dislike or like?
Replies: 41
Views: 9200

Real slabmasters can...

by Dave Budge
Mon Sep 19, 2005 6:55 pm
Forum: Routes
Topic: Slabs? dislike or like?
Replies: 41
Views: 9200

Definition of slab, continued...

I tried lycra (even pink) but I never became a hardman. I'd like to blame it on the tights, its easier that way. Yeah, its funny how people began calling vert to slightly overhanging routes "slabs" after climbing steep limestone. I'm with you on preferring routes like Puppets and BTB. Never redpoint...
by Dave Budge
Sat Sep 24, 2005 9:23 pm
Forum: Routes
Topic: Bolt chopping in Rock Canyon?
Replies: 17
Views: 5991

andrew christensen

by Dave Budge
Sun Sep 25, 2005 8:22 am
Forum: Routes
Topic: Meat Puppet
Replies: 37
Views: 10663

Puppet masters

So, ya know what I heard? Not sure whether to believe it or not. I heard that in order to redpoint Orange Crush Drew had to sacrifice a virgin and drink goat's blood. And that was when it still had a bunch of glue-on Pusher holds all over it. After he knocked off those holds it must go at, oh, at le...
by Dave Budge
Tue Sep 27, 2005 6:00 pm
Forum: Routes
Topic: best drill for bolting
Replies: 7
Views: 1783

sold

db, i'll take it. i'll call you.
by Dave Budge
Tue Sep 27, 2005 9:44 pm
Forum: For Sale/Lost and Found
Topic: Want to find or buy good quality binoculars
Replies: 3
Views: 1197

Binocs

go to Sierra Trading Post

got excellent binocs for CHEAP!
by Dave Budge
Fri Sep 30, 2005 6:38 pm
Forum: Announcements/Events/Other/Statewide
Topic: Local Shoe Resole?
Replies: 8
Views: 10396

Resoles

Mekan ruined a favorite pair of shoes once. Maybe things are different now. The Village Cobbler near Foothill Village has a young guy who seems very skilled at other aspect of cobbling, so it may be worth checking out. Safe bet: Rubber Room in Bishop, or Rock N' Resole in Colorado. Both do a great j...
by Dave Budge
Sat Oct 01, 2005 9:54 am
Forum: Routes
Topic: Fergy Routes
Replies: 13
Views: 3449

New FC routes

LUKED,

Would you consider adding the routes and descriptions to climbingsaltlake.com? Or perhaps post more detailed beta here?

Thanks to the routes' author(s) for the efforts.

Cheers
by Dave Budge
Sat Oct 01, 2005 10:04 am
Forum: Routes
Topic: Fergy Routes
Replies: 13
Views: 3449

Nomenclature

db,

Since we're in the vicinity, please illucidate the meaning of the following curious route names: Total Ramon and Scratchin' for the Loomer. They stand out in a world of boring route names. Enquiring minds want to know.

Cheers
by Dave Budge
Tue Oct 04, 2005 2:44 pm
Forum: Routes
Topic: LCC Clean Aid Routes
Replies: 11
Views: 3499

Aid lines

Some of the same route characteristics of a classic free climb also often make routes appealing for clean aid: clean line, continuity, good stone, etc. Learning clean aid is just as valid as ticking a free route. Definately get on the free routes mentioned. Avoid them if you can on evenings or weeke...
by Dave Budge
Wed Oct 05, 2005 10:33 am
Forum: Routes
Topic: LCC Clean Aid Routes
Replies: 11
Views: 3499

Point-Counterpoint

Trashman, point taken. However, to play the devil's advocate's devil's advocate :twisted: , I still think that the 3-star free routes make for very enjoyable clean aid outings. In fact, they are probably the safest routes on which to learn aid. To echo what bsmoot said, clean aid climbers have the s...
by Dave Budge
Tue Oct 18, 2005 5:56 pm
Forum: Routes
Topic: Flashdance
Replies: 14
Views: 3278

Flashdance

Just dug out the old guidebook where my gear beta is written. I used brass offsets with long slings so I would fall a bit before weighting the gear and avoid an outward pull. Good job winging on that thing. Its a head tickler.

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