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Utahclimbers.com - Search

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by cpage
Sun Oct 31, 2004 2:39 pm
Forum: Routes
Topic: The Coffin Roof Variation 5.12a ***
Replies: 12
Views: 3574

The Coffin Roof Variation 5.12a ***

[size=18] October 30th my friend and I climbed The Coffin. I aided the 5.12 section of the roof. The second pin weight tested just fine and I climbed on it. The next two pins are missing. I placed a small cam weight tested it and transfered my weigth onto that peace and moved up my ladders. My seco...
by cpage
Thu Nov 04, 2004 9:11 pm
Forum: Routes
Topic: The Coffin Roof Variation 5.12a ***
Replies: 12
Views: 3574

Question: Did I weight test the pin?

Yes, I weight tested the piton. In the book Big Walls page 33 "A good camming unit in a perfect crack is clearly bomber and doesn't need to be tested. Dubious placement ( I would count an old piton as dubious ), however, should always be tested. The standard method is the bounce test. Properly done,...
by cpage
Fri Nov 05, 2004 12:27 pm
Forum: Routes
Topic: The Coffin Roof Variation 5.12a ***
Replies: 12
Views: 3574

Sorry about the seminar

by cpage
Fri Nov 26, 2004 5:59 pm
Forum: Routes
Topic: Echo Canyon Alpine and Ice Route II, WI 4-5, M4, R
Replies: 4
Views: 2533

Echo Canyon Alpine and Ice Route II, WI 4-5, M4, R

Many thanks to David Black the author of Ice Climbing Utah. The start of the route I am talking about is found on page 119 of his book. I have used some of his descriptions along with mine to give updated beta for the lower part of the route and additional pitch's not described in the book. Echo Can...
by cpage
Thu Dec 02, 2004 5:23 pm
Forum: Routes
Topic: Great white
Replies: 15
Views: 5159

Monday, this week Dennis, Dee and I played on the first pitch. Not enough ice so we dry tooled the crack on climbers left. I went again Wednesday in the early am and there was a lot more ice, however you still had to finish the top by dry tooling in the crack. Thursday evening James and Matt went st...
by cpage
Fri Dec 03, 2004 8:33 am
Forum: Routes
Topic: Great white
Replies: 15
Views: 5159

Great White Icicle Report - Dee, Dennis and I climbed the GWI this morning Friday, December 3rd. The ice is thick and in great shape and the route is crowded. We got on the route first and when we left the parking lot at 7:30 am to go home there was 11 climbers on the route counting the three of us...
by cpage
Wed Dec 22, 2004 8:35 pm
Forum: Ice and snow
Topic: Ice at Joes?
Replies: 2
Views: 2523

Joes Valley Ice Update - on Wednesday, December 22nd a group of six climbing friends and myself went to Joes Valley ice climbing. Dennis White and I top roped the Donercicle WI5. It was real obvious that the top 2/3 of the climb was in no condition to accept protection. Water was flowing and splash...
by cpage
Thu Dec 23, 2004 8:06 pm
Forum: Routes
Topic: AID Beta - Bong Eater 5.10d, C1+ or Top Rope***, LCC
Replies: 11
Views: 4062

AID Beta - Bong Eater 5.10d, C1+ or Top Rope***, LCC

Many thanks to Bret Ruckman and Stuart Ruckman for their work in providing so much great beta in Wasatch Climbing North dtd 1991. Bong Eater Buttress is found on page 157. I have just about worn out my copy. Some information below is from their book and some of the information is from my own persona...
by cpage
Fri Dec 24, 2004 11:04 am
Forum: Routes
Topic: AID Beta - Bong Eater 5.10d, C1+ or Top Rope***, LCC
Replies: 11
Views: 4062

Hammer for Cleaning - I know to most the word hammer within the realm of aid climbing means rock distruction. However, I have found that if I carry my hammer during cleaning I can simply place my cleaning tool at the base of a previously weighted stopper and tap the cleaning tool with the hammer fo...
by cpage
Sat Dec 25, 2004 1:59 pm
Forum: Routes
Topic: AID Beta - Bong Eater 5.10d, C1+ or Top Rope***, LCC
Replies: 11
Views: 4062

Looney is a great description of me. Yes, I aided it for my second time last Friday, December 17th. The first time was about a year and half ago. Carl ...
by cpage
Sat Dec 25, 2004 5:24 pm
Forum: Routes
Topic: AID Beta - Bong Eater 5.10d, C1+ or Top Rope***, LCC
Replies: 11
Views: 4062

Yes, I transcribed the description with acknowledgements to others. I'm trying to be careful about plagiarizing. "Many thanks to Bret Ruckman and Stuart Ruckman for their work in providing so much great beta in Wasatch Climbing North dtd 1991. Bong Eater Buttress is found on page 157. I have just ab...
by cpage
Mon Dec 27, 2004 5:58 pm
Forum: Routes
Topic: Echo Canyon Alpine and Ice Route II, WI 4-5, M4, R
Replies: 4
Views: 2533

Echo Canyon Ice Update - Monday, December 27th : James Taylor and I spent the afternoon climbing in Echo Canyon. The Sreamer Routes mentioned above are not in. The first pitch of Sreamer Left is real thin (less than three inches at its thickest). The other climbs are bone dry. We need some foul wea...
by cpage
Thu Dec 30, 2004 10:41 pm
Forum: Routes
Topic: AID Beta - Bong Eater 5.10d, C1+ or Top Rope***, LCC
Replies: 11
Views: 4062

Prowser 5.12b ** - I have not yet aid climbed Prowser and I appreciate your recommendation to do so. I will do it in the near future. Grayhghost - Have you exited your aiders from the flake placement that you recommended above. It seems that your way would make for a much more difficult exit with i...
by cpage
Mon Jan 03, 2005 8:29 pm
Forum: Routes
Topic: Great white
Replies: 15
Views: 5159

Great White Icicle Conditions 1-3-05 - Dennis White, Robert Henderson and I climbed the Great White today in the early afternoon. First pitch is like a gym peg ladder. The Ramp was a little thin in a few spots with water showing, but the climb is straight forward and easy. The Buldge was great. On ...
by cpage
Fri Jan 07, 2005 1:30 pm
Forum: Routes
Topic: Great white
Replies: 15
Views: 5159

Great White Icicle - Ice Update 1-7-05 Dee Winegar and I climbed the Great White this morning in the early a.m. The first pitch and about 1/3 of the alpine area before the ramp had been climbed the night before. Dee and I broke trail the rest of the way up and over the top. The ice is cold and brit...

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