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Utahclimbers.com - Search

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by D Master K
Wed Jun 09, 2004 5:38 am
Forum: Routes
Topic: new(er) route at billboard
Replies: 12
Views: 3916

Hey Matt, There are two routes to the left of Monkey Brains. Both routes start on Apetizer and at its 3rd bolt head right. Climb a super-cool steep arete. At the top of the steep section the routes split. If you go left, it's called Ghost Dance and is rated 5.13b. If you go right, it's called Final ...
by D Master K
Mon Jun 14, 2004 10:23 pm
Forum: Routes
Topic: new(er) route at billboard
Replies: 12
Views: 3916

It's nice to hear some more confirmations on the grade of those two routes. Jeff originally rated them .13b/c and .13a/b. The only person that had seconded them was Bill O. And since we're not going to have split grades in the guide. He was the one who suggested the lower grade, but he's super talen...
by D Master K
Mon Jun 14, 2004 10:56 pm
Forum: Routes
Topic: new(er) route at billboard
Replies: 12
Views: 3916

by D Master K
Fri Jun 18, 2004 1:02 am
Forum: Routes
Topic: new(er) route at billboard
Replies: 12
Views: 3916

One day Jeff rapped down The Limestone Cowboy to check it out. While doing so he got more pschyed about a line to the left (Ghost Dance). He bolted it, brushed the dirt off the holds, and started working out the moves. The arete was cool and the pockets forced you to climb on its steep side, after t...
by D Master K
Fri Jul 02, 2004 12:24 am
Forum: Routes
Topic: Maple Canyon campsite 7 climb.
Replies: 2
Views: 1565

by D Master K
Thu Jul 08, 2004 10:53 pm
Forum: Bouldering
Topic: Turtlehead Topout?
Replies: 3
Views: 1437

Four years ago when we did it, the left hand was in the shallow pocket and the right was on the big slopey hold. The right foot went up high to a really small angle-shaped foothold. Then we threw a big throw with the right hand to the big jug. It was my favorite move on the problem. Getting the shal...
by D Master K
Fri Jul 09, 2004 8:08 am
Forum: Routes
Topic: Best AF routes.
Replies: 26
Views: 8938

A few weeks ago, I overheard someone say, "Don't bother doing any of the new routes in AF, none of them are 3-star." So, in honor of that Utah County punk, this list is my top ten favorite new AF routes many of which I consider surpassing the 3-star rating! Animal Grace- Lone Rhino Rhino Roof- Lone ...
by D Master K
Fri Jul 09, 2004 8:11 am
Forum: Routes
Topic: Best AF routes.
Replies: 26
Views: 8938

I would enjoy seeing posts here from Baldweeno, mc, and jc. Maybe they've lost that luvin' feelin' for AF over the last 15 years.
by D Master K
Fri Jul 09, 2004 8:19 am
Forum: Routes
Topic: Saw this on another site, thievery.
Replies: 10
Views: 3088

One of my friends got his car broken into at AF. He'd parked his car sideways and they pryed open the lock on his door that faces away from the road. He went into the Monument to report it to the rangers and they said, and I quote verbatim, "Oh, you're the first one today!"
by D Master K
Sat Jul 10, 2004 12:19 am
Forum: Routes
Topic: Best AF routes.
Replies: 26
Views: 8938

jonathan, Rock canyon finished AF Finished except for The Temple Just finished New Canyon In the middle of Maple, Box Canyon currently for me. Photo/topos/drawings well underway Hate to say a date and find out that layout and printing take longer than the date. My advice... get those projects finish...
by D Master K
Thu Jul 15, 2004 7:24 am
Forum: Routes
Topic: FA rights and responsibilities...
Replies: 84
Views: 23288

Wes, You've got me curious about Firefly. What is the bust out left to glue sequence? When I worked Firefly about 2 years ago, there wasn't any glue anywhere on the route. There is the route Welcome to Fitness to the left that has quite a bit of glue on it, but for the life of me I can't figure out ...
by D Master K
Thu Jul 15, 2004 8:44 am
Forum: Routes
Topic: Best "WTF" Routes in AF
Replies: 15
Views: 6059

Best "WTF" Routes in AF

I thought it would be fun to make a thread about routes, that when you're climbing them, you think, "what the..." If you're bored with the other routes in AF, this list would give you something to do one day and get those brain synapses firing! I don't know if I can come up with 10, so we'll just se...
by D Master K
Fri Jul 16, 2004 2:31 pm
Forum: Routes
Topic: Routes in Pipedream
Replies: 66
Views: 16546

The answer has a lot to to with what you guys are doing right now. We are working on Maple Canyon right now. The route grades are only tentative at this moment. Once the rough draft is done, we'll go about the job of a legitimate concensus. I'm also pretty active making notes of what other climbers ...
by D Master K
Mon Oct 18, 2004 1:05 pm
Forum: Routes
Topic: Area downcanyon from membrane and cannabis?
Replies: 1
Views: 1337

The area is called The Bad Beta Wall. The routes are left to right: For Whom The Bell Tolls 5.8 Battery 5.6 (The second pitch needs a few more bolts and chains and is open to anyone who would like to finish it. It should go around 5.9) Open Chains-needs a couple of more bolts. It's open also and mig...
by D Master K
Fri Nov 05, 2004 7:26 pm
Forum: New Areas
Topic: Maple
Replies: 30
Views: 27640

I got on the right one, Tomacco, and I think it's the best 12b in Maple Canyon. Perfect in every way. Awesome rock, awesome movement, awesome angle, awesome bolt placements, and a perfect ending. (Did I mention it's awesome?) :lol: Haven't got on the left one yet. Temps were sweet in Maple today, 11...

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