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Utahclimbers.com - Search

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by bsmoot
Sun Nov 02, 2003 9:56 pm
Forum: Routes
Topic: We need to be careful with LCC
Replies: 34
Views: 11225

1) If it's not your route, don't mess with it unless the FA is dead. (If the FA is dead, get a consensus on what to do first) So if George Lowe dies, and climbers agree, more protection bolts may be added to the Dorsal Fin? How about if it's not your route just leave it alone!! I hope this "I can d...
by bsmoot
Mon Nov 03, 2003 9:50 pm
Forum: Routes
Topic: We need to be careful with LCC
Replies: 34
Views: 11225

You mean, ahem, on the granite, lower down in LCC...(sorry, couldn't resist, had to beat Mike to that one). Do you consider a crumbly, limestone 10,900' mountain LCC? Brian, if you want to keep harassing those of us who climb at the Castle it would be nice if you'd actually done a climb up there! Y...
by bsmoot
Thu Nov 06, 2003 9:56 pm
Forum: For Sale/Lost and Found
Topic: Gear Found at Goodro's Wall
Replies: 0
Views: 947

Gear Found at Goodro's Wall

I think it was October 18th,

Call Brian 277-3063
by bsmoot
Wed Nov 12, 2003 10:38 pm
Forum: Routes
Topic: We need to be careful with LCC
Replies: 34
Views: 11225

The Fin Arete had 3 bolts added to it in the early 80's. 2 on the first pitch and 1 on the 3rd pitch. The latter creating a belay station so that you can do the climb in 3 pitches instead of it's original 4 pitches. My brother Jonathan & I decided not to remove them so that the route could be safer....
by bsmoot
Thu Nov 13, 2003 8:09 pm
Forum: Routes
Topic: We need to be careful with LCC
Replies: 34
Views: 11225

Belayon, The 2 bolts I'm talking about are at the start of the crack, just as you finish that classic hand traverse along the dike ( 3rd pitch ) Yes, I've done the Ventral Fin. It's a good aid route. Those seams are Knifeblade cracks. the rock is excellent. Yea, no snakes or "hostile tribe of hornet...
by bsmoot
Thu Nov 13, 2003 9:57 pm
Forum: Routes
Topic: We need to be careful with LCC
Replies: 34
Views: 11225

Yes, Mt. Moroni is about 1/2 mile south of the Zion lodge. The east face sports about 6 1/2 routes!
by bsmoot
Mon Nov 17, 2003 7:15 pm
Forum: Routes
Topic: We need to be careful with LCC
Replies: 34
Views: 11225

Mr. Sluggo The aid is clean, thin face cracks. It's harder than the trade routes, but not desperate or serious. The route is V 5.8 A2+. The lower half is steep aid & the upper half is more free climbing. The route follows a single crack for 9 pitches! The climbing though is still varied. You may wan...
by bsmoot
Tue Aug 24, 2004 10:08 pm
Forum: Routes
Topic: Who is Chopping Anchors????????
Replies: 44
Views: 12915

It would be nice if the bolt anchors on the University Slabs get put back in. Before the bolts were added, you had to tie into a small tree. This caused rock fall problems. The bolts seemed very unobtrusive. Joe said "why not just leave it clean"? Most roofs (that can't be done clean) have fixed pin...
by bsmoot
Mon Sep 13, 2004 11:31 pm
Forum: Routes
Topic: Triangle Wall
Replies: 14
Views: 3749

by bsmoot
Tue Sep 28, 2004 9:56 pm
Forum: Routes
Topic: The Pawn
Replies: 8
Views: 2221

Pawn

I've climbed 2 routes up there, both were about 9 to 10 pitches long. The area is bigger than it looks. It's beautiful up there, you're at 8000' in the pines and you can see Thunder Mt. etc. The first route we did was the obvious natural crack system cleaving the left side of the Pawn (IV 5.10 C1). ...
by bsmoot
Thu Sep 30, 2004 9:59 pm
Forum: Routes
Topic: The Pawn
Replies: 8
Views: 2221

The rock at the Pawn is most similar to Bells Canyon. In general, it's not as good as the Thumb, but new routes on granite always need cleaning. The Fin & The Thumb used to be a bit flakey too. The summit ridge of the Pawn is kinda gritty but the lower flanks are quite solid. Rock quality for me...
by bsmoot
Sun Oct 03, 2004 10:20 pm
Forum: Routes
Topic: LCC granite and the new temple
Replies: 103
Views: 23896

by bsmoot
Wed Oct 06, 2004 10:54 pm
Forum: Routes
Topic: LCC granite and the new temple
Replies: 103
Views: 23896

by bsmoot
Wed Oct 20, 2004 8:34 pm
Forum: Routes
Topic: New guidebook
Replies: 19
Views: 5175

New guidebooks are always great. especially if they are high quality. Triznut said " There has been a lot more route development than you think" This is true. Perhaps it would be nice to use this thread as a general source for any new route information that any of you might know about. Here's what I...
by bsmoot
Wed Oct 20, 2004 11:23 pm
Forum: Routes
Topic: New guidebook
Replies: 19
Views: 5175

Thanks, I did miss that topic.

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