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Anchors in Maple Canyon

Posted: August 5th, 2010

I received an email detailing a potentially hazardous anchor setup that is proliferating in Maple canyon and in particular the Zen Garden and Pipe Dream areas.

The anchors in question utilize quicklinks and (hopefully not a self-fulfilling name of) “slip hooks”:

Hooks

Hooks

If you are placing these anchors please discuss pros/cons of these hooks with Jeff at Momentum, on Mountainproject, or in the Utahclimbers.com forums.

Mountaineering in the Middle Kingdom slideshow

Posted: July 13th, 2010

Tien
What: Mountaineering in the Middle Kingdom by Kyle Dempster and Bruce Normand, Winners of 2010 Piolets d’Or Award

Where: Black Diamond Retail Store 2084 E 3900 S, Salt Lake City, UT.

When: Thursday July 15th, 7PM

At 7:00pm on July 15, Piolets d’Or winners Kyle Dempster and Bruce Normand will present a slide show on their climb in China’s Middle Kingdom. Dempster, Normand, and Jed Brown did the first ascent of Xuelian West (6,422m). The three men completed an alpine-style ascent of the 2,650-meter north face during a five-day round trip. Their route, the Great White Jade Heist, went at M6 WI5 5.7 R. Xuelian West is a satellite of 6,627-meter Xuelian, which has only been climbed once.

SLCA Stewardship Project, Saturday

Posted: June 2nd, 2010

SLCA Stewardship
Join us this Saturday, June 5, when the SLCA will host the third Stewardship Project for the 2010 project season. We will be meeting at the Ferguson Canyon Trailhead at 8:30am for a light breakfast and then hike into the canyon to finish up the construction of the final rock retaining walls/belay pads that we worked on last season. We will also accomplish some general trail maintenance and possibly work on other erosion issues above the belay pads.

We recommend that you bring gloves, water, snacks, a lunch, and any personal gear. If you have tools (rock bars, buckets, sledges, pick mattocks, etc.) bring them.

Please contact Jeff (jeff@saltlakeclimbers.org) if you have any questions.

Black Diamond’s first annual SLCA fundraiser

Posted: May 18th, 2010

Salt Lake Climbers Alliance Poster

We are pleased to announce Black Diamond’s 1st Annual Salt Lake Climbers Alliance Fundraiser. This year we are celebrating the alpine spirit of Seth Shaw with a night of music, food, slide shows, friends and fun.

Join us Thursday, May 20th 2010 from 6-10 PM at the Black Diamond courtyard at 2084 East 3900 South, Salt Lake City. Food and beverages will be provided by Desert Edge Brewery with Lortsher & Vlasic doing the catering. There will be stories, a raffle and slide shows by Doug Heinrich, Drew Bedford and the SLCA.

Tickets per person will be $30 before May 15th and $35 after May 15th, premium tickets are $50 and cover entrance to the event, an SLCA yearly membership, t-shirt and gym passes. (While they last!) Tickets can be purchased at the Black Diamond retail store located at 2084 East 3900 South or I.M.E. located at 3265 East 3300 South.

The SLCA would not exist without the generous support of the climbing community, our sponsors and individual climbers like you! Please help us continue our efforts to protect access and maintain crags by attending this fun event.

Momentum 5.14 Event

Posted: May 10th, 2010

From an email:


You do NOT want to miss this weekend at Momentum! Not only are we holding our annual 5.14 membership sale, but we are hosting a weekend of ridiculously awesome events! Come check it out!

Friday 5.14

Fast and Fit Competition:
You may be a climber, but are you a Fast and Fit climber? Our first annual Fast and Fit Climber Competition will give climbers of all ability levels an opportunity to compete in events that will test their balance, coordination, speed, and strength. You may climb 5.14, but how fast can you rodeo clip? How about jugging a fixed line? Can you campus a short route? Come test your skills and see if you are the Fastest and Fittest Climber. Register here. http://www.rockgymonline.com/gyms/momentum/comps/

Time: 7 p.m. – 10 p.m.
Price: Free

Late Night Climb:
We will be climbing the lines and pumping the tunes till the early morn. Open climbing begins after the Fast and Fit Climbers Competition and goes until 2 a.m.

Time: 10 p.m. to 2 a.m.
Price: $5 for non-members. (rental equipment included)

Saturday 5.15

Barbeque:
The Climbers Café boys will be grilling up some buffalo burgers and brat’s all afternoon!

Time: Noon to 6 p.m.

Shoe/Gear Demo:
5.10, LaSportiva, Red Chilli, Evolv and Black Diamond will be at Momentum letting you test drive their latest gear. Hike your favorite route in the new 5.10 Team shoes or take a few falls in the BD Chaos harness.

Time: 6 p.m. – 10 p.m.
Price: Trying on demo shoes is free

BYO Brew Movie:
Vertical Limit is one of the greatest stories ever told…..well not really, but it is one of the funniest climbing/mountaineering movies ever made. Bring your own Brew and watch Peter Garrett run around K2 with nitro glycerin strapped to his back in a wild attempt to save his trapped sister, Annie. Remember, “Every good climber wears a belt and suspenders.”

Time: Movie starts at 10:30 p.m. Run time: 124 min
Price: Free

Sunday 5.16

Barbeque:
The Climbers Café is back for round 2 of their famous BBQ food. More buffalo please!

Time: Noon – 4 p.m.

5!4 Sale Special Membership Prices – 4 month summer memberships
Membership Price
Individual $179
Couple $299
Couple + Child* $339
Couple + 2 Children* $379
Youth** $99

*(under 18) **(18 and under)

Liberty Mountain Outlet Sale

Posted: May 10th, 2010


What: Outlet Sale
When: May 19-22nd
Where: Liberty Mountain, 4375 W. 1980 S. Salt Lake City, UT
Info: HERE!

SLCA May 2010 Update

Posted: May 4th, 2010

Catch up on the latest SLCA news here.

Reminder: CORE, Thursday April 22 at Brewvies

Posted: April 21st, 2010

Core
On Thursday, April 22 the Salt Lake City premiere of Chuck Fryberger’s CORE will include two showings at Brewvies. (677 South 200 West.) Tickets are $10 and will be available at the door.

The first show is at 7pm, second show is at 9pm.

Upcoming events

Posted: March 19th, 2010

What:  BD Gear Swap
When:  March 20th, 8 AM
Where:  BD Store

Saturday March 20th 8am – noon
* Flea Market style gear swap Saturday Morning, Black Diamond Parking Lot
* Bring your old toys to sell or trade, then come into the store for great
deals on new gear

Guidelines for Sellers:
* Set up and display only in the designated Swap Area. No selling or displaying north of or outside the designated fenced area.
* No outside vendors or retailers – swap is for trading personal gear only
* Tables will be set up for displaying merchandise south of the retail store
* Parking is limited. Once the swap lot is full you’ll have to hoof your stuff to the tables
* Please be respectful of our neighbors and their property

Guidelines for Buyers:
* Any Purchase or trade made in the swap is between individuals and not with Black Diamond

What:  Mike Libecki Slideshow
When:  March 25th, 7 PM
Where:  BD Store, 2084 E 3900 S
Info:  Here

Mike Libecki will be taking the audience to some of the most remote, untouched areas of the planet to find beautiful culture, flora and fauna alien to the human eye, and of course what it is like to climb some of the most remote rock walls and towers on the planet. Libecki has explored all of the continents a few times over and will take us to two areas where rescue is not possible and magic truly exists. First we will go to the Gran Sabana in Venezuela, to climb overhanging tepui walls where tarantulas and scorpions are the crux. We will then go to the Socotra Island off the coast of Yemen, one of Earth’s last mysterious and unknown places to seek out granite towers and endemic species found no where else on the planet. This is a show not to miss, and his style of story telling and humor is guaranteed to bring laughter and inspiration.

What: Moes Valley Comp and Trail Building
When:  March 27
Where:  Moes Valley, Saint George
Info:  Here

Movie night part quatre!

Posted: March 3rd, 2010

Continuum Movie Poster
The Continuum Project Tour comes to SLC

Where: Brewvies Theater, 677 S 200 W
When: March 10, 2010 at 7:30 pm
What: Movie premiere and the nationwide kickoff for the Continuum Tour
Info: http://www.alstrinfilms.com/

As spring rolls in just around the corner we have a special edition of “Movie Night” that should be guaranteed to get you stoked on the season. Join us March 10th, 2010 at 7:30 pm at Brewvies to check out the premiere of Chris Alstrin’s latest film, “The Continuum Project.”

“The Continuum Project” follows some of the world’s best climbing talent around the globe to document bold new routes and daring repeats on ice, rock, and in the alpine. Shot entirely in High Definition, watch as Guy Lacelle, Audrey Gariepy and Mathieu Audibert establish terrifying new ice routes in Norway and Rob Pizem and Mike Anderson crush brawny off-widths and delicate face climbing in Zion. Get on route with Ines Papert and Cory Richards as they blitz Kwangde Shar in Nepal and witness Majka Burhardt and Sarah Watson free the Beckey Route on Elephant’s Perch in the Sawtooths. Discover the rewards and risks of exploration with Jon Walsh and Ian Welsted as they establish a beautiful new mixed line in the remote Icefall Brook range of British Columbia and cool down on the difficult sport routes of Lions Head in Ontario with Sam Elias, Emily Harrington, Leslie Timms and Lauren Lee.
http://www.alstrinfilms.com/TCP-trailer.html

Tickets are $10 and can be purchased in advance at The Front Climbing Club, Momentum, and IME. Paid SLCA members can get tickets at half price, so log in, sign up with the SLCA and get the discount.
http://www.saltlakeclimbers.org/membership

2010 Wasatch Powderkeg

Posted: March 3rd, 2010

WPK 2010
What: Backcountry race
When: Saturday, March 13, 2010
Where: Brighton, UT
Info: http://wasatchpowderkeg.com/

2010 Big LePowSki

Posted: February 10th, 2010

Where:  The State Room, Brighton, Club Elevate
When:  February 25-27, 2010
What:  Film Festival, Ski Clinics, Benefit Party
Info:  Here, at www.ready2climb.com

BLPS

PDF Poster

The Big LePowSki goes BIG!

THE DUDE shows up 4 times in winter 2010!

In the last two winters The Big LePowSki Freeride Happening was such a great success that we decided to let other freeride hotspots enjoy the fame as well.

Apart from our “Homebase” Davos  there will be The Big LePowSki Freeride Happenings in La Grave (France), St. Anton (Austria) and Brighton (USA).

Dates:
La Grave, February 19-21, 2010
Brighton, February 26-27, 2010
Davos, March 5-7, 2010
St. Anton, March 19-21, 2010

The program will be even bigger with special Women’s & Photography Workshops and more freeride courses for beginners. Our new sponsoring partner PIEPS is a perfect match for the avalanche rescue workshops that will be held on both days. Also, some of our sponsored worldclass Ski Athletes will take part at The Big LePowSki to give you an inside on the ski life of a pro rider.

Registration is open!

Momentum comp and movie

Posted: February 3rd, 2010

From a Facebook invite:

Host: Momentum Climbing Gym
Date: Saturday, February 20, 2010
Time: 4:00pm – 9:30pm
Comp Check-IN: 3:00pm
Location: Momentum, 220 west 10600 South Sandy, Utah
Description: Momentum is proud to present Pat Ament’s latest creation “Disciples of Gill.” And to celebrate, you know we HAVE to hold a bouldering comp!!!

Here’s the details: The comp will begin at 4pm, with Beginner, Intermediate, Advanced, and Open categories (and of course, a raffle). Momentum Members pay $25 (which gets you a raffle ticket and a ticket to the film premier, also). All others pay $30.

The film will begin at 8pm. Comp participants are free, all others pay $8.
Don’t miss this film. It is one of the best you’ll see on climbing: a beautiful chronicle of the golden age of American bouldering.

The film features John Gill, who indeed was/remains the greatest American boulderer. His fame has reached around the world. On the recommendation of many people, Pat Ament at last decided to digitize his original, classic 16mm footage of Gill and also his ancient footage of the amazing Jim Holloway, the only film that captures both of these two champions of bouldering when they still were in their prime. This film, central to which are these two superstars, is a priceless historical artifact. Old images come alive, restored and preserved in high definition.

Pat’s vision, however, has not been simply to preserve the critical footage but also build a new film around it. His efforts have resulted in a gorgeous, nostalgic piece that remembers the golden age of bouldering and chronicles its development and central characters. Featured are all the original, most significant pioneers of bouldering and the true disciples of Gill. Barry Bates, for example, the best California boulderer in the later 1960’s, known for his exploits in Yosemite and at Pinnacles, and known also for his quiet, genial spirit, has never until now been interviewed. His lovely insights are invaluable. Also legendary Greg Lowe, the remarkable Utah master boulderer and climber, has not until now been interviewed. He and Gill sit together and muse about time and its passing. Included are commentaries by Jim Holloway himself, Rich Goldstone, a disciple of Gill’s, and Jeff Lowe. Ament also, another partner to Gill and Colorado’s best boulderer during the golden age, provides a humble portrayal of his own bouldering exploits.

Plastic Passion

Posted: January 29th, 2010

What: Romantic(?!) Comp
When: Saturday, February 13
Info: http://www.frontslc.com/website/comps/comps/2010_plastic_passion/setup2.php

Join the Front Salt Lake for the first ever couples comp, Plastic Passion, on Saturday, February 13th. Grab your significant other, roommate, favorite climbing partner, or that guy (or girl) you’ve been eyeing at the gym that sends big and get your pre-Valentine passion on.  Another good-clean-fun event at The Front Climbing Club.

Can’t find a partner? No biggy, just browse the singles lounge on Front Utah’s facebook then boast your mad skills and prowl for a mate.

There will be over 70 new problems for all abilities plus schwag from Asana, Evolv, Mountain Hardware, ProBar, Petzl, and more.  You and your partners scores will be combined to create your team's final score.  Your teams category will determined by your total score.  Don't worry – just come have fun – most of our prizes will be raffled off.

Also make sure to FAN The Front Utah on Facebook since The Front SLC and The Front Ogden recently joined forces for one ultimate Facebook experience.

Cruxmas comp

Posted: December 8th, 2009

What:  Cruxmas, Ode To The Desert!
When:  Friday, 12/11/09
Where:  The Front
More Information:  http://www.frontslc.com

2009 Cruxmas

2009 Cruxmas